Rauru – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time

Rauru was a pattern I wrote when I didn’t have the right yarn to continue with Ganondorf. When I finished that lengthy project, I came back to the pattern and found it was largely ready to crochet so this one went a good bit faster than expected. I really like the way this guy turned out. Enjoy.

Complete doll, front

Rauru (The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time)

Materials

Worsted weight yarn in red, orange, cream, grey-blue, grey, and skin tone.

One pair 6mm safety eyes

3.5 mm E crochet hook

 

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1: With red, make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, 3 dc bobble st 2, sc 3 (8)

Rnd 3: sc around (8)

      Stuff the shoe

      Change to skin color

Rnd 4: in BLO, sc around (8)

Rnd 5 – 7: inc, sc around (8, 9, 10)

      sl st in next st and FO

 

Body and Head

Rnd 1: With orange,  join the legs and [sc 4, inc] 5 (25)

Rnd 2 – 5: sc around (25)

       Change to red

Rnd 6: in BLO, sc around (25)

Rnd 7: [sc 8, inv dec] 3 times, sc (22)

      Change to orange

Rnd 8: sc around (22)

Rnd 9: [sc, inv dec] 8 times, sc (17)

      Stuff the body

Rnd 10: [sc, inv dec] 5 times, sc 2 (12)

      Change to skin tone

Rnd 11:  in BLO, [sc, inc] 6 times (18)

Rnd 12: [sc, inc] 2 times, sc 4, 2 dc bobble 2, sc 4, [sc, inc] 2 times (22)

      Change to grey

Rnd 13: sc 10, in BLO, sc 3, in both loops, sc 9 (22)

Rnd 14: sc 4, change to skin tone [ch 4, working in back loop of ch, sl st in second chain from hook, sc 2, hdc, next sc in Rnd] ear made, change to grey, sc 2, change to skin, sc 5, [ch 2, 2 dc bobble, sc  in back loop of sc] nose made, sc 4, change to grey, sc 2, change to skin, repeat ear, change to grey, sc 4 (22, not including nose and ears)

The Sage of Light has several layers to his garb. Although none of the pictures I saw showed his feet, I don’t like the look of the filled-in-with-stuffing-dress without legs.

Rnd 15: sc 5, invdec over ear, catching the rear most and front most st, sc 2, change to skin, sc, inc, sc 2, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, sc, inc, sc, change to grey, sc, invdec over ear catching the front and rear st of ear, sc 4 (22)

Showing inv dec across ear to close gaps in the head. Three loops on the hook.

Showing detail of round 15 of the body. sc on right side of nose

Showing detail of round 15 of the body. sc on the right side of the nose (as seen here), then skip nose, inserting hook as shown to go on the the next sc.

Showing detail of round 15 of the body. sc on the right side of the nose (as seen here), then skip nose, creating a sc across the gap

Showing detail of round 15 of the body. Completed round with inv dec over each each and sc on either side of nose.

      Change to skin tone

Rnd 16: sc 5, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 13, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 4 (22)

Showing detail of round 16 of the body. Here I have approached the ear and inserted my hook through the ear (created in Rnd 14) before inserting it into the stitch above it in round 15. This will make the ear stand up, facing the front of the doll rather than the floor.

Rnd 17: sc around (22)

Rnd 18: [invdec, sc] 7 times, sc (15)

      Attach safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16 on either side of the nose.

      Stuff the head

Rnd 18: invdec around (7)

      FO, close the hole, weave in the end

Stubby legs and no neck help this doll achieve his proper size

Back view of completed body

Robe, top layer

Turn the doll upside down.

Join cream colored yarn to the free white loops in the back of the doll.

Rnd 1: [sc 13, inc] 2 times (30)

Rnd 2: in FLO, sc around (30)

Rnd 3 – 4: sc around (30)

        Change to grey-blue

Rnd 5: sc around (30)

       Change to cream

Rnd 6: sc around (30)

      FO, weave in ends

Middle layer of robe is the first one added.

Robe, bottom layer

With the cream layer flipped up towards the doll’s head, attach orange yarn to free loops near top.

Rnd 1 – 6: sc around (30)

Rnd 7: sc 4, [inc, sc 6] 4 times (34)

Rnd 8 – 9: sc around (34).

Rnd 10: [sc 16, inc] 2 times (36)

Rnd 11 – 14: sc around (36)

      FO, weave in ends.

Attaching orange yarn to the free loops begin the bottom layer of the robe

Middle layer of robe flipped up. Innermost layer of robe connected to free loops created by crocheting in front loops only on white (middle) layer of robe

Arms (make 2)

With orange, make a magic ring, sc 6

Rnd 1: in BLO, [sc, inc] 3 times (9)

Rnd 2: [sc 2, inc] 3 times (12)

Rnd 3 -4: sc around (12)

Rnd 5: [sc 5, inv dec] 2 times (10)

Rnd 6- 8: sc around (10)

Rnd 8: [sc 4, inv dec] 2 times (8)

Rnd 9: [sc 3, inv dec] 2 times (6)

      FO, leaving a long end for sewing.

      Attach orange yarn to free loops at Rnd 1, [hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st] 2 times, FO, weave in ends.

      Using red yarn, weave around the sleeve at Rnd 2, knot and weave in ends.

      Stitch arms to body.

 

Collar

With red, ch 20.

Rnd 1: create a round by sc in the first ch, sc 20 (20)

Rnd 2: [sc 4, [sc, ch 1, sc] in next st] 4 times (24, not including ch st)

Rnd 3: [sc 6, [sc, ch 1, sc] in corner ch] 4 times (32, not including ch st)

Rnd 4: [sc 8, [sc, ch 1, sc] in next st] 4 times slip st into beginning of Rnd, FO, weave in ends (40, not including ch st)

 

Apron

With white, ch 5, leaving a long lead string for sewing

Row 1: sc second ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 2 – 3: sc across, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 4: in BLO, inc, sc 3, turn (5)

Row 5: sl st, change to red, in BLO, sc, inc, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 6 – 9: sc 3, ch 1, turn (3)

Row 10: inc, sc 3, ch 1, turn (5)

Row 11 – 14: sc 5, ch 1, turn (5)

Row 15: inc, sc 4, ch 1, turn (6)

Row 16 – desired length: sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)

Rauru’s Hauberk before detail stitches were added

The Sage of Light has several layers to his garb. This is the top layer of the robe before the two pieces are sewn together.

The Sage of Light has several layers to his garb.

The Sage of Light has several layers to his garb. Here he is wearing all three of them

Hair

Add turkey work hair along the head and mustache and add eyebrows. Use several loops to create a high ponytail. Cut open the loops and trim hair to desired length. I liked the look of the closed loops for the mustache so I left mine intact. See Ganondorf pattern or crochet stitches page for details on how to make turkey work.

Turkey work loops on the side of the head before they have been cut open to create the hair. See pictures under Ganondorf for details on stitching turkey work.

Turkey work loops on the side of the head before they have been cut open to create the hair. See pictures under Ganondorf for details on stitching turkey work.

Complete doll, 3/4 view

Back view of completed doll

3/4 Back view of completed doll

Complete doll, front

Ganondorf – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time

Here he is!!! I am ridiculously excited about this doll. I started designing him with some trepidation because I felt that he needed to be a little bigger than the others and because he was so detailed. The reason this one has taken me soooooo much time to put out is that he required an extensive redesign. I like the larger doll so much that I am tempted to go back and remake some of the others. He is about 10″ tall where by other dolls are 6″ tall. My husband thinks I went overboard with the details, but I think he looks great.

The yarns used here were a variety of different brands which changes the proportions a little bit. All of them call themselves worsted weight, but the brownish green that looks so phenomenal for his skin was from a fancy knitting store and the weight was so low when I unwound it from its tight skein that I ended up doubling it up (crocheting with two strands at once) to get the look I have here. It worked nicely when I went to make the eyelids at least. The black was a Caron soft, the orange is from an Ilauke mini-skein, and the wonderful coppery brown is a Vanna White color.

Ganondorf (The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time)

Materials

Worsted weight yarn in black, dark brown, medium brown, green, orange, gold (optional), tan, and cream.

One pair 8mm yellow or brown safety eyes

Silver, red, and gold puffy paint

3.5 mm E crochet hook

pale peach and blue embroidery floss (optional)

 

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1: With dark brown yarn, ch 5, inc in second ch from hook, sc 2, sc 4 in last ch then continue around stitching into backside of ch, sc 2, inc in last ch (12)

Rnd 2: in BLO, sc 5, inc 2, sc 5 (14)

Rnd 3: sc 2, change to medium brown, sc 11, change to dark brown, sc 2 (15)

      Change to medium brown

Rnd 4: inc, sc 6, inv dec, sc 6, inc (16)

      Change to cream

Rnd 6: in BLO, sc 5, skip 7, sc 5 to create the toe of the boot. (10)

Rnd 7 – 9: sc around (10)

      Change to black

Rnd 10: 3 dc bobble, hdc, 3 dc bobble, hdc, sc, change to white, inc, change to black, hdc, 3 dc bobble, hdc, 3 dc bobble (11)

       Change to tan

Rnd 11: sc, inv dec, sc, change to black, hdc, 3 dc bobble, hdc, change to tan, inv dec, sc 3 (9)

      Change to medium brown

Rnd 12: [sc 2, inc] 3 times (12)

Rnd 13: sc around (12)

       Change to dark brown

Rnd 14: [sc 5, inc] 2 times (14)

Rnd 15: sc around (14)

Rnd 16: in BLO, [sc 5, inv dec] 2 times (12)

Rnd 17: sc around (12)

       sl st in next st and FO

      stuff the legs and boots.

Attach medium brown yarn to the first open brown loop on the boot. Sc 2, inv dec 2, sc 2, FO leaving a long tail and use to sew the top of the boot closed by stitching the outside loops of the sc together to create a smooth top.

Top of boot after 1) adding row 2) stuffing 3) stitching closed

Skip seven stitches of brown to separate the boot from the leg.

Leg prior to stuffing and closing the boot.

Ganondorf Foot – stuffed, before sewing boot closed. Shown: where to attach the yarn to make the top of the boot.

Ganondorf Foot – stuffed, with additional row added just before sewing boot closed.

Body and Head

Rnd 1: With dark brown yarn join the legs and sc around (22)

Rnd 2: change to medium brown, sc 3, change to dark brown, sc 5, change to medium brown, sc 6, change to dark brown sc 5, change to medium brown, sc 3 (22)

Rnd 3: FP tc, FP dc, sc 2, change to dark brown, sc 3, change to medium brown, sc 2, FP dc, FP tc 2, FP dc, sc 2, change to dark brown, sc 3, change to medium brown, sc 2, FP dc, FP tc (22). The front post stitches are intended to make the crotch/butt armor. The central FP tc stitches should almost connect between the legs where the FP dc stitches will only go down one row.

Inserting hook for front post double crochet stitch.

Wrapping hook for front post triple crochet stitch

Completed front post triple crochet stitch.

Detail of completed front post stitches to make the front of Ganondorf’s armor

Rnd 4: Change to black yarn, sc 9, change to cream, sc 5, change to black, sc 9 (22)

Rnd 5: Change to medium brown, sc 9, in BLO, sc 5, in both loops, sc 9 (22)

Rnd 6 – 8: sc around (22)

Rnd 9: sc 5, change to black, sc 3, change to medium brown, sc 8, change to black, sc 3, change to medium brown, sc 4 (22)

Rnd 10: inc, sc 4, change to black, sc 3, inc, change to medium brown, sc 8, change to black, inc, sc 3, change to medium brown, inc, sc 3 (26)

Rnd 11: sc 4, change to black, sc 6, change to medium brown, sc 6, change to black, sc 6, change to medium brown, sc 4 (26)

Rnd 12: inv dec, sc, change to black, inv dec, sc 5, inv dec, sc 2, inv dec, sc 2, inv dec, sc 5, inv dec, sc, inv dec, sc (24)

Rnd 13: [inv dec, sc] 8 times (16)

       Stuff the body

Rnd 14: [sc, inv dec] 4 times (8)

       Change to skin color

Rnd 15 – 16: sc around (8)

Rnd 17: inc around (16)

Rnd 18: [sc 2, inc] 2 times, sc, hdc, dc, 2 dc bobble, dc, hdc, sc, [sc 2, inc] 2 times (20)

Rnd 19: sc 10, [ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in last ch, sc in side of sc your ch is off of] nose made, returning to stitching in the round, sc 10 (20, not counting nose)

Rnd 20: sc 5, [ch 3, insert hook into next row down and out again around the post of that stitch (just like you would do for an FP dc), draw up a loop, turn and sc into your ch. Sc into the outside loop of the next two ch, your next stitches are back on the round of the head] ear made, sc 5, skip the nose and sc into the next regular sc on the head round, sc 3, repeat ear, sc 3 (20, not counting nose)

Appearance of first completed ear from the top of the doll

Chain stitches extending out from round. Note completed first ear and nose.

After making your ch 3, you insert the hook down two rows to create a front post single crochet stitch.

After making your ch 3, you insert the hook down two rows to create a front post single crochet stitch.

Single crochet stitches in the chains that make up the ear.

After completing the ear, continue stitching in the round.

Stitch to here and then you will skip over the nose to continue stitching.

Stitch to the nose, skip the nose, and insert your hook on the other side of the nose. You will need to poke the nose (which is above the hook in this image) below the hook in order to continue stitching in the round to make the head.

Stitch to the nose, skip the nose, and insert your hook on the other side of the nose. You will need to poke the nose below the hook (shown here) in order to continue stitching in the round to make the head.

Here you can see I crocheted to the nose, inserted my hook into the sc on the other side of the nose, and then poked the nose down and out of the way of my stitch.

Completed ear row from the back

Completed ear row from the top

Rnd 21: sc around, stitching into sc stitches around the ear as if the ear wasn’t there (20)

Rnd 22: sc 6, inv dec, sc 3, inv dec, sc 7 (18)

Rnd 23: sc around (18)

       Attach safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16.

      Stuff the head

Rnd 24: [inv dec, sc] 6 times (12)

Rnd 25: invdec 6 (6)

      FO and close the hole

Appearance of first completed ear from the top of the doll

Chain stitches extending out from round. Note completed first ear and nose.

After making your ch 3, you insert the hook down two rows to create a front post single crochet stitch.

After making your ch 3, you insert the hook down two rows to create a front post single crochet stitch.

Single crochet stitches in the chains that make up the ear.

After completing the ear, continue stitching in the round.

Stitch to here and then you will skip over the nose to continue stitching.

Stitch to the nose, skip the nose, and insert your hook on the other side of the nose. You will need to poke the nose (which is above the hook in this image) below the hook in order to continue stitching in the round to make the head.

Stitch to the nose, skip the nose, and insert your hook on the other side of the nose. You will need to poke the nose below the hook (shown here) in order to continue stitching in the round to make the head.

Here you can see I crocheted to the nose, inserted my hook into the sc on the other side of the nose, and then poked the nose down and out of the way of my stitch.

Completed ear row from the back

Completed ear row from the top

Here is the completed body of Ganondorf from Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time

Here is the completed body of Ganondorf from Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time.

Right Arm

Rnd 1: with skin color, make a magic ring and sc. ch 2, sl st into second ch from hook, sc into ring (thumb), [ch 4, sl st 2, sc into ring] 3 times (three fingers), ch 3, sl st 2 (pinky finger), sc 3 into ring (8 sc with five fingers sticking out of ring)

Rnd 2: sc around, skipping fingers (8)

Rnd 3: hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st, change to black, 2 dc tog, dc, 2 dc tog, change to skin tone, hdc, sc in next st (8)

      Change to cream

Rnd 4 – 7: sc around (8)

      Change to black

Rnd 8: in BLO, [inc, sc 3] 2 times (10)

Rnd 9 -12: sc around (10)

      Lightly stuff the arm

Rnd 13: inv dec around (5)

      FO and close the hole, leaving a long yarn end for sewing

Left Arm

Rnd 1: with skin color, make a magic ring and sc. ch 3, sl st into second ch from hook, sl st into next ch, sc into ring (pinky finger), [ch 4, sl st 2, sc into ring] 3 times (three fingers), ch 2, sl st (thumb), sc 3 into ring (8 sc with five fingers sticking out of ring)

Rnd 2: sc around, skipping fingers (8)

Rnd 3: hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st, change to black, 2 dc tog, dc, 2 dc tog, change to skin tone, hdc, sc in next st (8)

       Change to cream

Rnd 4 – 7: sc around (8)

      Change to black

Rnd 8: in BLO, [inc, sc 3] 2 times (10)

Rnd 9 -12: sc around (10)

       Lightly stuff the arm

Rnd 13: inv dec around (5)

       FO and close the hole, leaving a long yarn end for sewing

      Sew arms to body

Armor

With black, ch 21

Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc 20, turn

Row 2: ch 1, sc 5, hdc 3, dc 4, hdc 3, sc, 5, turn

Row 3: sl st, sc 2, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, sc, inc, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, inc, sc, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, inv dec, sc, sl st, turn

Row 4: sl st, sc 3, hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc, sc 15, hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc, sc 2, sl st, FO

 

Armor Collar

Attach black to back loop of starting ch, 3 st in from the end

Row 1: [sc 3, inv dec] 3 times, sc 2, turn (10)

Row 2: in FLO, sc around (10)

Row 3 – 4: sc around (10)

      FO, leaving a long end for sewing

      Sew around shoulders

Cape

With red, ch 24, leaving a long end at the beginning of the ch for sewing

Row 1: sc 23

Row 2: sl st 3, sc 3, hdc 11, sc 3, sl st 2

Row 3: sl st 3, [sc 3, inc] 4 times, sl st 2

Row 4: sl st 3, sc 3, [2 hdc in next st, hdc 3] 3 times, sc 2, sl st, turn

Row 5: sl st, [sc 3, inc] 3 times, sl st 2

Row 6: sl st, inc, sc 8, inc, turn

Row 7 – 8: ch 1, sc 12, turn

Increase Row: ch 1, inc, sc across, turn

Length Row: ch 1, sc across, turn

      Repeat increase row once and then length row 2 times, until cape has the desired length

      May make the bottom row with gold yarn or add a fringe if desired.

      Sew the cape to the front of the shoulders

Attach cream colored yarn to the end of the cape over the left shoulder and ch 6.

Loop through the end of the cape over the right shoulder and sl st back into ch,

Row 1a: sl st, sc, hdc 2, sc, sl st, turn (6)

Row 2a: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (6)

Belt

Attach cream yarn to free loops at doll’s waist, starting from the left side with the doll upside down.

Row 1: sc across (5)

Row 2: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st

        FO, weave in ends.

 

Hair

Using orange yarn, cover the head in turkey work (make a stitch with a loose loop and then stitch into same st with a tight stitch to anchor the loop. Make sure to make bushy eyebrows angled down towards his nose to make him look evil/angry. Leave him with a receding hairline so you have space for his forehead decoration. Cut open the loops and trim the hair and eyebrows to the desired length.

Note that the bottom right image below shows Ganon with side burns as well as eyebrows. While this matches the images of him, I didn’t like the way it turned out. In these images, Ganon has longer hair and I have not yet cut open the loops. The eyebrows look a bit odd with the loops intact, but the hair looks good cut or looped. I actually made two dolls so I could get all the pictures I wanted of this very complicated doll. The doll shown in the completed pictures had shorter hair (smaller loops) even before I cut the loops open to make his hair shaggy. Again, I like it either way so I included both sets of pictures.

Turkey Work: long loop stitch

Turkey Work: tight stitch to form knot to secure strand of hair

Turkey Work hair

Turkey Work hair from the side

Eyelids

With skin tone green yarn, run two stitches from the top outside corner of the eye to the middle inside of the eye, leaving the yarn overlapping the top part of the safety eye. For the lower lid, start from the same point on the nose side of the eye as the upper lid, angle down to about a third of the way across the bottom of the eye, catch the needle through the yarn of the face there, and then finish the lower lid by making a line parallel to and just shorter than the upper lid.

 

Finishing

The head decoration and necklace are made with puffy fabric paint. I made the silver shape first and then added a red circle for each gem. I filled the circle in with gold paint and let the doll dry for 24 hours. You can do this step before or after the embroidery on the cream colored areas.

The embroidery on the cream colored areas is optional. My husband didn’t think it needed it, but I couldn’t resist the detail. I tried using yarn, but the colors were inappropriately bright and the lines were too thick. Six stranded embroidery floss worked out better. There is a peach rectangle on the side of each limb and then the blue goes all the way around each limb with a line above each peach rectangle and a square U in-between them. On the cape connector and belt, there is a square wave pattern with each color, leaving space for a star in the middle.

You may also choose to embroider gold designs on the cape.

Here are the completed images of my best, largest, most detailed doll to date!

The lord of evil in all his glory from the back.

The lord of evil in all his glory.

Impa – The Legend of Zelda Ocarina of Time

Please note that if you are having issues figuring out the ears there are many pictures of how to execute these properly in the pattern for Zelda – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time detailed photos post.

 

Impa (The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time)

Worsted weight yarn in black, purple, white, grey, silver, and skin tone.

One pair safety eyes

silver puffy paint

3.5 mm E crochet hook

 

Right Leg

Rnd 1: With purple yarn, Make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, 3 dc bobble st, change to black, 3 dc bobble stitch, change to purple, sc 3 (8)

      Change to black

Rnds 3 – 4: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 5: sc 4, change to skin color, sc, change to black, sc 3 (8)

       Stuff the boot

      Change to skin color

Rnd 6: [sc 2, inv dec] 2 times (6)

Rnd 7 – 8: sc around (6)

Rnd 9: change to purple, [inc, sc 2] 2 times (8)

Rnd 10: sc around (8)

      sl st in next st and FO

 

Left leg

Rnd 1: With purple yarn, Make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3,  change to black, 3 dc bobble st, change to purple, 3 dc bobble stitch, sc 3 (8)

Rnds 3 – 4: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 5: sc 3, change to skin color, sc, change to black, sc 4 (8)

      Stuff the boot

     Change to skin color

Rnd 6: [sc 2, inv dec] 2 times (6)

Rnd 7 – 8: sc around (8)

Rnd 9: change to purple, sc around (8)

Rnd 10: sc around (8)

      sl st in next st and FO

 

Body and Head

Rnd 1: with purple, join the legs and sc around (14)

Rnd 2: sc 3, inc, sc, change to black, sc 2, change to purple, sc 2, inc, sc 2 (14)

Rnd 3: change to black, sc 6, change to silver, sc 2, change to black, sc 6 (14)

Rnd 4:  change to brown, sc 5, change to silver, sc 4, change to brown, sc 5 (14)

Rnd 5: change to black, sc 2, inv dec, sc, change to silver, sc 4, change to black, sc, inv dec, sc 2 (12)

Rnd 6: sc 4, change to silver, sc 4, change to black, sc 4 (12)

Rnd 7: change to brown, sc 4, change to silver, sc, 2 dc bobble, change to skin tone, sc, change to silver, 2 dc bobble, sc, change to brown, sc 4 (12)

Rnd 8: change to black, sc 4, change to silver, inv dec, change to skin tone, inc, sc, change to silver, sc, change to black, sc 4  (12)

      Stuff the body including the shorts

     Change to skin color

Rnd 9: invdec 6 (6)

      Change to black

Rnd 10: sc around (6)

Rnd 11: inc 6 (12)

Rnd 12: [sc, inc] 2 times, sc, [sc, hdc] in next st, dc, [hdc, sc] in next st, [sc, inc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 13: sc 4, [ch 5, working in back loop of ch, sl st in second chain from hook, sc 2, hdc, dc, next sc in Rnd] ear made, sc 5, [ch 2, sl st, sc  in back loop of sc] nose made, sc 4, repeat ear, sc 4 (18, not including nose and ears)

Rnd 14: sc 4, invdec over ear, catching the rear most and front most st, sc 2, inc, sc, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, inc, sc 3, invdec over ear catching the front and rear st of ear, sc 3 (18)

Rnd 15: sc 4, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 10, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 3 (18)

Rnd 16: sc around (18)

Rnd 17: [invdec, sc] 6 times (12)

      Attach safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15 on either side of the nose.

      Stuff the head

Rnd 18: invdec around (6)

      FO, accent different colored patches with silver if desired. I used a sport weight shiny baby yarn to achieve the effect here.

Arm (make 2)

Rnd 1: with skin color, make a magic ring and sc 4, change to black, sc 2 more in the ring (6)

Rnd 2 – 4: sc around (6)

      Change to skin color

Rnd 4 -6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: change to purple, sc 2, 2 dc bobble 2 times, sc 2 (6)

      Sl st and FO, leaving a long yarn end for sewing

      Accent sleeves with silver if desired

      Sew arms to body

 

Hair

With grey, use a tapestry needle to cover Impa’s head with hair. Use a silk stitch to go from her brow line to ponytail, leaving a loop at the nape of the neck with each stitch. Cut these loops and then tie together in a ponytail with another piece of grey yarn. Stitch in some yarn for bangs.

Detail (optional)

Cut an hourglass shape from a small piece of black or dark blue felt and attach to doll from choker to cleavage. You can use thin tipped fabric puffy paint to make the design or embroider it if you so desire. I found I liked my doll better without the choker detail so I left it off.

Use puff paint to put a silver accent under each eye.

Impa with felt and paint choker

Impa with felt choker

Impa with silver accents on clothes (sport weight silver baby yarn) and eyes (puffy paint)

 

The version of Impa on the left above was an earlier doll. I had accidentally skipped a row at her stomach and had originally written the pattern with an additional row of skin between the armor and the neck. This row of skin made for rather deep cleavage and gave better room for the choker design, but I just felt like the breasts looked too saggy, the hips were too small and the legs were too big around. I Include this image so you can see what the choker is intended to look like as well as to illustrate the detail I try for.

Sheik – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time

Sheik version 2.0! I have completely misplaced Sheik version 1.0. She was a bit of a disaster which is why I made a second version. In the first version, the cowl covering her face looked bad because it seemed much too long and she was disproportionate in other ways. I then experimented on the poor doll by playing with her with paints and thread for her designs. I was glad I continued version 1.0 because it meant I went far enough to fix the hat (totally wrong in v.  1.0). Eliminating the neck made the cowl look SO much better. I left in the nose even though you can’t see it in the images of Sheik. You are welcome to leave off the nose for more verisimilitude if you would prefer, but I like the way it looks.

Note that the areas of white that are done in BLO are an attempt to make them look like wrappings. I thought this came off very well with the hat, but I did not do the arms or cowl that way. You are welcome to stitch the white part of the arms and neck covering in BLO to change the effect there, but my pictures do not reflect that change.

Sheik (The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time)

Worsted weight yarn in black, blue, white, blond, and skin tone.

One pair safety eyes

Iridescent red and light blue crystal puffy paint

3.5 mm E crochet hook

 

Right Leg

Rnd 1: With black yarn, Make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3,  change to blue, 3 dc bobble st, change to black, 3 dc bobble stitch, sc 3 (8)

Rnds 3 – 4: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 5: sc 3, change to blue, sc, change to black, sc 4 (8)

      change to blue

Rnd 6 – 8: sc around (8)3eee

Rnd 9: change to black, sc 3, change to blue, sc 5 (8)

      sl st in next st and FO

 

Left leg

Rnd 1: With black yarn, Make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, 3 dc bobble st, change to blue, 3 dc bobble stitch, change to black, sc 3 (8)

Rnds 3 – 4: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 5: sc 4, change to blue, sc, change to black, sc 3 (8)

      change to blue

Rnd 6 – 8: sc around (8)

Rnd 9: sc 5, change to black, sc 3 (8)

      sl st in next st and FO

      stuff the legs.

 

Body and Head

Rnd 1: with black, join the legs and sc around (14)

Rnd 2: sc 5, change to white, sc 4, change to black, sc 5 (14)

Rnd 3: Change to white, in BLO, sc 3, change to black, inv dec, change to white, in both loops sc 4, change to black,  in BLO, inv dec, change to white, sc 3 (12)

Rnd 4:  in BLO, sc 4, in both loops, sc 4, in BLO sc 4 (12)

Rnd 5: in both loops, sc 5, inc, sc, inc, sc 4 (14)

Rnd 6: sc around (14)

Rnd 7: [sc 5, invdec] 2 times (12)

      Stuff the body

Rnd 8: in BLO,  invdec 6 (6)

      Change to skin color

Rnd 10: inc 6 (12)

Rnd 11: [sc, inc] 2 times, [sc, hdc] in next st, dc (this is the point of the chin so it should be centered), [hdc, sc] in next st, [sc, inc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 12: sc 4, invdec, sc 4, [ch 2, sl st, sc  in back loop of sc] nose made, sc 4, invdec, sc 3 (16 st not including nose)

Rnd 13: sc 8, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, sc 7 (16)

Rnd 14 – 15: sc around (16)

Rnd 16: [invdec, sc] 5 times, sc (12)

Rnd 17: [invdec, sc] 4 times (8)

      Attach safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15 on either side of nose.

      Stuff the head

Rnd 18: invdec to close the hole (4)

      FO, accent different colored patches with silver paint or thread if desired. I used a sport weight shiny baby yarn to accent thighs, boots, and arms.

 

Collar/Neck wrap

Turn the doll upside down if you want the collar to curl in showing the wrong side, but I did it with the doll right side up here.

Join white yarn to a free loop at the back of the body.

Rnd 1: [inc, sc] 4 times, sc (14)

Rnd 2: [inc, sc 2] 5 times, leaving off the last sc (21) (May do rounds 2-5 in FLO (leaving the loop towards the outside of the doll visible) to give a wrapped look if desired, not shown)

Rnd 3 – 4: sc around (21)

Rnd 5: sc around (21)

 

Arm (make 2)

Rnd 1: with skin color, make a magic ring and sc 4, change to black, sc 2 more in the ring (6)

      Change to white

Rnd 2 – 4: sc around (6) (may choose to do Rnds 3 and 4 in BLO, not shown)

      Change to black

Rnd 4 -5: sc around (6)

      Change to dark blue

Rnd 6: sc around

Rnd 7: sc 4, 2 dc bobble 2 times (6)

     Sl st and FO, leaving a long yarn end for sewing. Accent arms with silver paint or thread if desired. I used a sport weight shiny baby yarn after my doll was otherwise complete.

      Sew arms to body

 

Hair

Wrap dark yellow or gold yarn around a 2” piece of cardboard about 18 times. Stitch up the middle to make a wig. Arrange the back half of the hair evenly behind the ears. The front should be parted over the doll’s right eye with the bangs covering the left eye. You can stitch or glue the wig on (I stitched it messily in place, knowing I was going to cover that up) or just stitch the hat onto the head through the wig to hold it in place. Even out the back hair to shoulder length.

Head wrap

Rnd 1: With white, make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: in BLO, inc in each st (16)

Rnd 3: in BLO, [inc, sc 2] 5 times (21)

Rnd 4: in BLO, [sc 6, invdec] 3 times (18)

FO and leave a long end for sewing.

      Sew hat to head, arranging wig under it as you go.

Silver accents shown below

Zelda – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time

I wrote a pattern for the Zelda from the first game, but somehow I just haven’t gotten around to making her yet. I definitely need to try my pattern because there are inevitably things that don’t work quite right and I tweak the pattern. I’m working on Impa from this same game right now and my first “draft” of her and Sheik REALLY did not go well. Usually I try a few rows and then pull it out and change it if I wasn’t happy with it, but if I get too far along like I did with Sheik and Impa and I’ve already put in the safety eyes, then I just finish it and experiment a bit more. On my first draft of Sheik I tried puffy paint versus stitching the silver accents with yarn (each on half the body) and decided that I liked the yarn better, but I still used paint for the design on her chest because I just don’t think my poor embroidery skills are up to that.

Here is the adult Princess Zelda from The Legend of Zelda: The Ocarina of Time. This game seems to have had more love in general from my friends and family so I decided to make a number of the characters. Zelda is my first one from this game and she will be followed shortly by Sheik (already done), Impa (two thirds done), Link, and my first attempt at Ganondorf. I haven’t decided if I’m going to do Rauru or Kaepora Gaebora yet. If anyone is actually reading this blog and wants to request a character, please do send me a request, but for now keep it to Ocarina of Time or earlier. I have plans to get to Breath of the Wild for sure and I want to attempt Wind Waker even though I haven’t yet figured out how I will get the cartoony appearance to work with the dolls.

As I am composing the post here, I notice that I improved the appearance of the face by moving the nose (and therefore the eyes) down a row and changing the nose a little bit. I will change the pattern below to reflect the better appearance you will see in Sheik and Impa and even my Link from A Link to the Past, but I will put the original pattern for the head below. If you like the arrangement of Zelda’s features in the pictures below, please look for the alternate instructions at the end for the head. Also note that my doll is looking over to her left a bit. You can adjust your doll to have the head pointed wherever you you like- just put the middle of the chin in the direction you want the head to point and then center the ears, nose and eyes according to that.

Without further ado, here is my first pattern for the games’ namesake.

Zelda (The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time)

Worsted weight yarn colors needed: dark pink for top and stripe in dress, dress itself should be very pale pink or very pink lavender. Also need skin tone, gold, light brown

Safety eyes

Polyfill

Blue felt for apron

Red, gold, and green puffy fabric paint or embroidery floss

Glue or embroidery floss to attach apron

 

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1: With dark pink, make a magic ring and sc 6 (6)

Rnd 2: sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc 4, 2 dc bobble 2 (6)

Change to skin color

Rnd 4 – 9: sc in each st (6)

sl st in next st and FO

Lightly stuff the legs.

Body and Head

Rnd 1: With light pink,  join the legs and sc around (12)

Rnd 2: sc 2, hdc 2, sc, sl st 2, sc, hdc 2, sc 2 (12)

Rnd 3: in BLO, sc 5, in both loops, hdc 2, in BLO, sc 5 (12)

Change to gold

Rnd 4: in BLO, sc around (12)

Change to dark pink

Rnd 5-6: sc around (12)

Rnd 8: sc 4, 2 dc bobble, sc 2, 2 dc bobble, sc 4 (12)

Rnd 9: sc 2, change to light pink, sc 2, change to dark pink, sc 2, inv dec, sc 2, change to light pink, inc, change to dark pink, sc 2  (12)

Stuff the body

Change to light pink

Rnd 8: invdec 3, change to skin color, invdec, change to light pink, invdec 2 (6)

Change to skin color

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

(Note: Alternate pattern for the doll shown here in the pictures as opposed to the arrangement of features of face as in Link from A Link to the Past and Impa and Sheik from Ocarina of Time is below the end of the pattern. Go to that section now to make the doll’s head exactly as seen in these pictures)

Rnd 10: inc 6 (12)

Rnd 11: [sc, inc] 2 times, sc, [sc, hdc] in next st, dc, [hdc, sc] in next st, [sc, inc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 12: sc 4, [ch 5, working in back loop of ch, sl st in second chain from hook, sc 2, hdc, dc, next sc in Rnd] ear made, sc 5, [ch 2, sl st, sc  in back loop of sc] nose made, sc 4, repeat ear, sc 4 (18, not including nose and ears)

Rnd 13: sc 4, invdec over ear, catching the rear most and front most st, sc 2, inc, sc, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, inc, sc 3, invdec over ear catching the front and rear st of ear, sc 3 (18)

Rnd 14: sc 4, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 10, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 3 (18)

Rnd 15 – 16: sc around (18)

Rnd 17: [invdec, sc] 6 times (12)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15 on either side of the nose.

Stuff the head

Rnd 18: invdec around (6)

FO, weave in the end

 

Skirt

Turn the doll upside down.

Join light pink yarn to the free loop above the front middle of the doll’s left leg that is lower on the torso (the upper loop will be for the shirt bottom).

Rnd 1: sc 5, 3 sc in next loop, sc 4, in higher loops in the middle of the bottom of the belt, 3 dc (15)

Rnd 2: sc around (15)

Rnd 3: [inc, sc 4] 3 times (18)

Rnd 4: sc around (18)

Rnd 5: [inc, sc 4] 3 times, sc 3 (21)

Rnd 6: sc around (21)

Rnd 7: [inc, sc 6] 3 times (24)

Rnd 8: sc around (24). You can adjust the length of the dress to suit your style and doll by doing more or fewer of this round.

Rnd 9: sc 10, change to dark pink, sc 14 (24)

Rnd 10: sc 10, change to light pink, sc 14 (24)

Rnd 11: sc around (24)

Rnd 12: sc 11, sl st 5 (16) partial round.

FO, weave in ends.

Shirt Bottom

Turn the doll upside down.

Join dark pink yarn to the free loop just below the belt, above the front middle of the doll’s left leg.

Row 1: sc 4, inc 2, sc 4, sl st in same st, turn. You now have an unfinished round which counts as the first row. (12)

Row 2: ch 1, sl st, sc 10, sl st, turn (12)

Row 3: ch 1, sl st, inc, sc 5, inc, sl st 2 (12)

FO, weave in ends.

Arms (make 2)

With pale pink, make a magic ring, sc 6

Rnd 1-6: sc around (6)

Rnd 7: change to skin color, sc around (6)

Rnd 8: sc around (6)

FO, leaving a long end for sewing.

Stitch arms to body.

 

Shoulder guards (make 2)

With gold yarn, ch 10. Leave a long tail at the beginning of the chain for sewing.

Row 1: Sl st, sc, hdc, dc, sc, sl st (6)

Row 2: Sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st (6)

Row 3: in BLO, sc, hdc, sc (3)

Row 4: ch 1, sc, hdc, sc (3)

Row 5: ch 1, sc in middle st of row, sl st, FO (2)

The unworked ch from each of the two pieces will link into the side of the shoulder guard that lacks chain stitches. Thus the chain from one shoulder guard will go across the back of the doll’s neck and the chain from the other shoulder guard will go across the front of the neck. Use the long end of the yarn to stitch the chain from one shoulder guard into the other shoulder guard and then to stitch the shoulder guard to the doll. The unworked ch stitches can remain loose or be stitched down.

Hair

Wrap dark yellow or gold yarn around a 3” piece of cardboard about 18 times. Stitch up the middle to make a wig. If you want your doll to have a smooth, polished look, then carefully iron the wig (low temp to avoid melting the acrylic yarn) so the hair is straight (not shown here). Position the wig on the doll’s head with the stitch seam creating a centered part. Arrange the hair so there is about three strands in front of each ear. Arrange the back half of the hair evenly behind the ears. You can stitch or glue the wig on (I’d recommend doing both). Even out the back hair to go about half way down the doll’s back. The forelocks (bit of hair in front of the ears) should be about shoulder length. The front should be gathered into a half ponytail in the back of the head.

Apron

Cut apron shape out of dark blue or purple felt. I drew the design with fine tip puff paint because I hate sewing, but if you want to embroider the design or leave it blank, go ahead and make it yours. I attached the apron with yellow embroidery floss, using a two ch bit of gold yarn to cover the attach points.

Alternate Head Design (shown in images here)

Complete the legs and torso as above

Rnd 10: inc 6 (12)

Rnd 11: [sc, inc] 2 times, [sc, hdc] in next st, dc (this is the point of the chin and should be centered), [hdc, sc] in next st, [sc, inc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 12: sc 4, [ch 5, working in back loop of ch, sl st in second chain from hook, sc 2, hdc, dc, next sc in Rnd] ear made, sc 10, ear, sc 4 (18)

Rnd 13: sc 4, invdec over ear, catching the rear most and front most st, sc 4, [ch 3, sl st in second chain from hook, next sc in Rnd] to make a nose, sc 4, invdec over ear catching the front and rear st of ear, sc 3 (16 st not including nose)

Rnd 14: sc 4, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 4, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, sc 4, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 3 (17)

Rnd 15: sc around (17)

Rnd 16: [invdec, sc] 5 times, sc (12)

Rnd 17: [invdec, sc] 4 times (8)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15.

Stuff the head

Rnd 18: invdec to close the hole (4)

Link – The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past

Link  from The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past or The Legend of Zelda: The Four Swords

Completed doll, front view

Materials

Green, dark brown, black, medium brown, yellow or brown gold (hair), silver, blue, red, and skin tone worsted weight yarn

Gold embroidery floss for buckle

3.5 mm E crochet hook (use unless otherwise noted) and 2.5 mm C crochet hook (only where noted

Tapestry needle for sewing

Blue safety eyes

Optional: Supplies to give structure to sword and shield if desired ie. cardboard and straightened paper clip. Puffy paint to paint the design on the shield. Iridescent red and gold.

If you have issues figuring out the ears there are many pictures of how to execute these properly in the pattern for Zelda – The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time detailed photos post.

 

Legs (make 2)

Rnd 1: With dark brown, make a magic ring and sc 8 (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, 3 dc bobble st 2, sc 3 (8)

Rnd 3 – 5: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 6: Change to medium brown, sc around, attach to first st of round with sl st and FO (8)

      Change to skin color

Rnd 7: in BLO, sc 3, inv dec, sc 4 (7)

Rnds 8 -9: sc in each st (7)

sl st in next st and FO

      Lightly stuff the legs.

 

Boot Cuff

Keeping leg right side up, attach medium brown yarn to the free loop at the back of the boot.

Row 1: dc in each free loop around (8)

sl st in first st, FO

      Roll this row of stitches down over the top of the boot to create the cuff. Weave in end.

 

Body and Head

Rnd 1: With green,  join the legs and sctog, sc 5, sc tog, sc 5 (12)

Rnd 2: [sc 5, inc] 2 times (14)

Rnd 3: sc around (14)

      Change to black

Rnd 4: in BLO, sc around (14)

      Change to green

Rnd 5 – 6: sc around (14)

Rnd 7: [invdec, sc 5,] 2 times (12)

      Stuff the body

Rnd 8: [invdec 2, sc] 2 times (6)

      Change to skin color

Rnd 9: sc around (6)

Rnd10: inc 2, 2 hdc in each of next two sc, inc 2 (12)

Rnd 11: [sc, inc] 2 times, [sc, hdc] in next st, dc, [hdc, sc] in next st, [sc, inc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 12: sc 4, [ch 5, working in back loop of ch, sl st in second chain from hook, sc 2, hdc, dc, next sc in Rnd] ear made, sc 5, [ch 3, sl st, sc in back loops of chs] nose made, sc 4, repeat ear, sc 4 (18, not including nose and ears)

Rnd 13: sc 4, invdec over ear, catching the rear most and front most st, sc 5, skip nose and sc on the other side of it, sc 4, invdec over ear catching the front and rear st of ear, sc 3 (17)

Rnd 14: sc 4, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 10, insert your hook into the loop from side/back of ear to make it stand up, then put your hook into the next sc in round, draw up a loop, pull this loop through the first two loops on the hook, YO, and pull through both loops on hook to complete the sc, sc 3 (17)

Rnd 14: sc around (17)

Rnd 15: [invdec, sc] 5 times, sc (12)

Rnd 16: [invdec, sc] 4 times (8)

      Attach safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15.

      Stuff the head

Rnd 16: invdec to close the hole (4)

      FO, use gold or yellow thread to embroider a belt buckle

      Use green yarn to make two x’s at the middle top of the front of the shirt

Body, head and arm detail before adding the bottom to the shirt

Bottom of the shirt detail

Bottom of shirt

Turn the doll upside down.

Join green yarn to one of the free loops at the bottom of the belt.

Rnd 1: sc 4, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (15)

Rnd 2: sc around (15)

Rnd 3: [inc, sc 4] 3 times (18)

      FO, weave in ends

 

Arms (make 2)

Rnd 1: with skin color, make a magic ring and sc 6 (6)

Rnd 2 – 3: sc around (6)

      Change to medium brown

Rnd 4 – 8: sc around (6)

      Sl st and FO, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

      Sew arms to body: note that the right arm should be parallel to the floor to hold his shield where the left is his sword arm so it can be more at his side.

 

Hair

Wrap dark yellow or gold-brown yarn around a 2” piece of cardboard 14-18 times. Stitch up the middle to make a wig. Position the wig on the doll’s head with the stitch seam going from ear to ear. Arrange the hair so there is about three strands in front of each ear. Tuck a small amount of the front hair over the right ear and then gather the remainder of the front hair to a sweep over the left eye. Arrange the back half of the hair evenly behind the ears. You can stitch or glue the wig on and/or you can stitch the hat on over the wig to hold the wig in place. Once the wig is secured, trim the hair to page boy length for back and forelocks.

 

Hat

With green, make a magic ring and sc 3

Rnd 1: sc around (3)

Rnd 2: inc, sc around (4)

Rnd 3: inc, sc 2, inc (6)

Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] 2 times (8)

Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] 2 times (10)

Rnd 6: sc around (10)

Rnd 7: [sc 4, inc] 2 times (12)

Rnd 8: sc around (12)

Rnd 9: [sc 5, inc] 2 times (14)

Rnd 10: sc around (14)

Rnd 11: [inc, sc] 2 times, [inv dec, sc] 2 times, sc 2, [inc, sc] 2 times (16)

Rnd 12: [inc, sc] 2 times, sc 2, [hdc, hdc 2 tog] 2 times, hdc, sc, [inc, sc] 2 times (18)

Rnd 13: sc 4, inc, 2 hdc in next st, dc, 2 dc tog, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc tog, dc, 2 hdc in next st, inc, sc 4 (22)

Rnd 14: sc 4, inc, hdc, 2 hdc in next st, dc, 2 dc tog, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc tog, dc, 2 hdc in next st, hdc, inc, sc 4 (26)

Rnd 15: change to yellow [sc 6, inv dec] 3 times (23)

      FO, leaving a long end for sewing

Side view of hat before being attached to doll

Doll shown with arms and hair stitched on. Note that Link needs three strands of hair in front of each ear and then the rest should be swept to his left in the front.

Side Detail: Doll shown with arms and hair stitched on. Note that Link needs three strands of hair in front of each ear and then the rest should be swept to his left in the front.

Side Detail: Doll shown with arms and hair stitched on. Note that Link needs three strands of hair in front of each ear and then the rest should be swept to his left in the front.

Completed doll, side view

Side view of doll with wig, hat, and arms attached

Completed doll, back view.

Completed doll, front view

Sword

With dark brown and 2.5 mm crochet hook, make a magic ring and sc 4

Rnd 1 – 5: sc around (4)

Rnd 6: *[ch 5, starting in second ch from hook, sc 4] cross guard side made. Sc 2 into Rnd 5 to secure cross guard to hilt* then repeat from * to * and then sl st to complete hilt. (22 including ch and cross guard sc)

      Change to silver

Rnd 7: sc 4 in round, ignoring cross guard st (4)

Rnd 8 – 17: sc around (4)

Rnd 18: inv dec 2, FO and weave in the end (2)

      May insert a toothpick or bit of wire or piece of a paper clip to give it stiffness, but the sword blade should stand up on its own without support.

      Stitch sword to left hand of doll or you can make a handle for the sword the same way you made one for the shield.

 

Shield (make 2)

With bright blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook, ch 8

Row 1: sc in second chain from hook, sc in each ch across, turn (7)

Row 2 – 8: ch 1, sc across, turn (7)

Row 9: sl st, sc 5, turn (6)

Row 10: sl st, sc 3, turn (4)

Row 11: sl st, sc, FO (2)

      Decorate the front side of the shield if you would like. You can embroider the shield design, crochet it on the surface or use puff paint (let this dry thoroughly before going on to the next step).

 

Constructing Shield

Layer the two shield shapes together. Using silver yarn and starting at the top corner, sc the two shield shapes together. At each corner, sc on the current side of the corner, ch 1, and then sc on the other side of the angle. Stop at the other top corner.

Insert a piece of cardboard or anything flat and stiff that will help the shield hold it’s shape in between the two layers of shield. Ch 1 for the corner and then sc across the top. Ch 1 and then attach to beginning of round with a sl st. FO and weave in the end.

Shield strap

ch 10 in the color of your choice, sc 9, FO.

Stitch this to the middle back of the shield in a vertical line in the top third of the shield. Make sure the arm of your doll can fit through the strap before sewing down the second end.

Back view of two versions of Link’s shield

Shield strap detail

Two versions of Sword and Shield

Completed doll with sword and shield

Side view of completed doll with sword and shield

Completed doll with sword and shield

 

Crochet Abbreviations

I was thinking about the things I posted yesterday and realized that I am using many abbreviations. Most of them are fairly standard, but I wanted to clarify further anyway. Apologies if I am reinventing the wheel, but this is how I understand the stitches!

YO = yarn over. Wrap the free end of your yarn around the crochet hook once.

st = stitch

Starting loop: This isn’t a phrase that you will see anywhere, but is the first thing you do with your loose yarn in order to start a chain. The starting shape is the same for a magic ring (see below). Make a pretzel shape by looping the yarn around and across itself. Hook the back most strand with your crochet hook and pull it through the front most loop. Pull tight to create a slipknot. This loop can be used to start a chain for a flat piece or to attach to any piece already in progress. See pictures. (Sorry they are blurry, will find a camera with a macro setting and redo them eventually)

Starting Loop Step 1

Starting Loop Step 2

Starting Loop Step 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

ch = chain. YO and draw the loop through the loop on your hook. No attachment to any other stitches. May start from any stitch or starting loop.

sl st = slip stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch, draw up a loop, and pull it through the loop on your hook. (NO YO)

sc = single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch, draw up one loop, yarn over, draw through both loops.

hdc or HDC = half double crochet. YO, hook into the stitch you are working at, YO, draw up a loop so you have three loops on your hook. YO and draw your hook through all three loops.

dc or DC = double crochet. YO, hook into the stitch you are working at, YO, draw up a loop so you have three loops on your hook. YO, draw your hook through two loops. YO, draw your hook through two loops.

tc or TC = treble crochet or triple crochet. YO twice, hook into the stitch you are working at, YO, draw up a loop so you have four loops on your hook. YO, draw your hook through two loops. Repeat until you are back to one loop on the hook. Note that this stitch is rarely if ever used in amigurumi. Since you are stuffing the dolls, both dc and tc stitches leave too much space- the stuffing could be visible or even leak out between the stitches, but since I can’t promise that those are the only patterns I will ever post here, I am being complete.

sctog = single crochet together. Insert your hook into your stitch, YO, draw up a loop. Put your hook into the next stitch, YO, and draw up a loop. You now have three loops on your hook. YO, and draw through all three loops. You’ve now replaced two stitches with one stitch.

invdec = invisible decrease. Insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch, insert your hook into the follow stitch. YO and pull through all three loops on the hook. Same idea as sctog- you replace two stitches with one, but in a less obvious/prettier way. It’s a much better looking stitch with less gapping than a sctog, so it is my preferred method for decreasing the number of stitches in a row. It is tighter and a little harder to maneuver so I tend to drag my hook down into the first stitch and come up into the second stitch. See pictures below.

dctog = double crochet together. YO, insert your hook into the stitch, draw up a loop. YO, insert your hook into the next stitch, and draw up a loop. You now have three loops on the hook. YO and draw through all three loops. Another way to decrease the number of stitches in a row and again, not much used in amigurumi.

2dc bobble YO, insert your hook into the stitch, draw up a loop. YO, insert your hook into the SAME stitch, and draw up a loop. You now have three loops on the hook. YO and draw through all three loops. This stitch does NOT change the number of stitches in the row, it creates a little bulge.

3dc bobble YO, insert your hook into the stitch, draw up a loop. YO, insert your hook into the SAME stitch, and draw up a loop. One more time! You now have four loops on the hook. YO and draw through all four loops. This stitch does NOT change the number of stitches in the row, it creates a medium bulge.

magic ring Make a pretzel shape with the loose end of your yarn, just as if you were going to create the first loop for a chain, but instead of pulling tight into a knot, draw up a loop, YO and draw up a loop, YO and pull through both loops on the hook, essentially making a single crochet and trapping the two strands of yarn forming your overlapping ring. You will then be directed as to how many stitches to put into the ring. Once you have made all your stitches into the ring, you should be able to pull the loose yarn tail, tightening the whole thing into a beautiful ring with minimal center gap once you loop into your first stitch with a sl st or sc. You want to trap that tail into your next round to keep it tight and neat. This technique creates a much prettier piece that making a chain and doing multiple stitches into the first chain. See pictures below (Again apologies for the blur. iPhone just doesn’t do macro well)

Magic Ring Step 1

Magic Ring Step 2

Magic Ring Step 3

Magic Ring Step 4

Magic Ring Step 5

Magic Ring Step 6

Magic Ring Step 7

FO = finish off. Cut the yarn so you are left with a short tail (or a long one if needed to sew the finished piece onto another piece). Pull this tail through the last loop on the stitch 1-2 times to make a subtle knot. You will usually weave in or crochet over this tail to hide and secure it.

FPdc (Front Post Double Crochet): YO. Insert hook from front to back on the right side of the stitch one row down. Going around the post of that stitch, insert hook from back to front on the left side of the dc. Continue working dc normally – YO, draw up a loop and pull through two loops on the hook two times.

Inserting hook for front post double crochet stitch.

BPdc (Back Post Double Crochet) =  YO. Insert hook from back to front on the right side of the stitch one row down. Going around the stitch, insert hook from front to back on the left side of the stitch. Continue working dc normally – [YO, draw up a loop and pull through two loops on the hook] 2 times.

FPtc (Front Post Triple Crochet): YO twice. Insert hook from front to back on the right side of the stitch two rows down from your current row. Going around the post of this stitch, insert hook from back to front on the left side of the stitch. Continue working dc normally. [YO, draw up a loop and pull through two loops on the hook] 3 times.

Wrapping hook for front post triple crochet stitch

Completed front post triple crochet stitch.

Turkey Work: This is done with a tapestry needle (blunt needle with an eye large enough for yarn) rather than with a crochet hook. Basically you are knotting strands around each stitch so you can make fringe or hair. Make a stitch with your needle, leaving a loose loop and then stitch into same st with a tight stitch to anchor the loop. Cover the entire surface where you want there to be hair or fringe. Tie off and then cut open the loops, trimming the strands to the desired length.

Turkey Work: long loop stitch

Turkey Work: tight stitch to form knot to secure strand of hair

Turkey Work hair

Turkey Work hair from the side

Turkey Work loops cut open